Chhattisgarh is an unusual choice for a traveller. There is very little known about this region except that it’s *somewhere* in central India. Earlier this year, before the Covid-19 pandemic struck, I ticked Chhattisgarh as my 20th Indian state. My travel map got some more pins in central India.
The main reason for me to visit Chhattisgarh was to explore the Bastar region which has long being marred as a Naxal zone. Raipur, the capital, was my gateway to enter Chhattisgarh. I spent a whole day here discovering this bustling town so in this post, I’ll tell you all about Raipur – from what to do to what to see and where to eat. But before we begin, here’s a brief history on Raipur city…
History of Raipur
The Raipur district came into existence during the 14th century AD when the Kalchuri kings divided Ratanpur. Some legends believe that King Ramchandra’s son Brahmdeo Rai established Raipur, which could explain how the city got its name. The decline of this dynasty’s rule came with the death of King Amarsingh Deo. This was followed by the rule of the Bhonsle kings of Nagpur until the British government assumed power in 1854, and Chhattisgarh was declared a separate commissionary with headquarters at Raipur.
Raipur has been an important district from the historical and archaeological point of view. It was once a part of the Southern kingdom of Kosala (7th century BCE). Raipur was also the capital of the Haihaya dynasty of Kalchuri kings, who controlled the traditional forts of Chhattisgarh for the longest time.
My first impressions of Raipur
A big airport
The Swami Vivekananda Airport (Raipur airport) is bigger than a lot of other tier 2 city airports that I’ve seen. It was even awarded as one of the best airports of India for customer satisfaction and facilities in 2015-16. However, it isn’t as crowded or teeming with tourists – tourism really hasn’t picked up here.
Commercial nerve center
Raipur is not only the capital of Chhattisgarh but also the commercial nerve center of the state. There’s an old Raipur that is buzzing with people, shops and lots of vehicles snaking through narrow lanes. And then there’s a new Raipur with the airport, broad roads and up and coming commercial buildings.
Two wheeler culture
A huge population here rides two wheelers. In fact, I saw an unusually large number of women in Raipur who were riding two wheelers, compared to other tier 2 cities that I’ve visited. Perhaps I had a very different impression of this city.
Chhattisgarhi Cuisine
Chhattisgarhi cuisine has its own variants for some of the snacks that we’re already familiar with like Bara (Urad Dal vada), Poha and Sabudana ki Khichdi. Try a local snack called Faraa (or rice fingers) steamed and seasoned with oil, seasame seeds, chillies, curry leaves and coriander.
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Familiar culture
Chhattisgarh was a part of Madhya Pradesh until it became an independent state in 2000. So you will notice a little similarity in cultures between both the states – people, dialect, etc.
Travelling around
Uber and Ola work like a breeze in Raipur, but I suggest to travel in rickshaws for a true local experience.
Raipur City guide: Places to see in Raipur
Townhall
The Town hall also known as the Victoria Jubilee hall was inaugurated in 1890. The stones used to construct this building came from the Raipur fort. The majestic structure is adjoined to the Shastri Chowk and Collectorate Bhavan. One can see a full list of ruling kings of various dynasties here.
Mahant Ghasi Das Memorial Museum
Located right opposite the Collectorate’s Office on J. E. road, the Mahant Ghasi Das Memorial Museum is a window into the rich heritage of Chhattisgarh. It was constructed from the valuable contributions of Queen Jyoti Devi – Rajnandgaon and inaugurated by the first President of India, Dr. Rajendra Prasad. You will find rich cultural artifacts, archaeological excavations, intricately crafted idols, ancient stone inscriptions and rare coins on display inside the museum.
Byron Bazaar
Around the time of the Second World War, an Englishman, Lord Byron established a marketplace called the Byron Bazaar in Raipur. The Byron Bazaar has a Catholic Church that is very famous for its architecture, a mosque and a Rama temple. Over time, it has come to be known as a symbol of cultural unity.
Vivekananda Sarovar
Vivekananda Sarovar also called the Budha Talaab is the oldest lake in Raipur. In the center of the lake, there is an island garden and a 37 ft high statue of Swami Vivekananda which has a Limca Book of record for being a one of its kind. The Vivekanand Sarovar looks beautiful during the evenings when the fountain lights are lit up.
Mahamaya temple
The Mahamaya Devi Mandir is over 900 years old and attracts the attention of historians and archaeologists for its unique Nagar School of architecture. The temple was built by King Ratan Dev. Many of the statues and motifs used in the temple have been taken from rundown Jain temples of earlier centuries. The temple complex also has smaller statues of Mahakali, Bhadrakali, Surya Dev, Lord Vishnu, Lord Hanuman, Bhairava and Lord Shiva.
Nagar Clock
Nagar Clock is a really beautiful tower sitting on a busy junction near Shastri Chowk and Dau Kalyan Singh hospital. The ‘Minar’ is a famous tourist attraction.
Solar Energy Park
A handful of cities in India have lovely gardens but none can match the uniqueness of the Solar Energy Park in Raipur, set up by Chhattisgarh Renewable Energy Development Agency (CREDA). The garden aims to create awareness and educate people about the various forms of renewable energy through indoor and outdoor exhibits. Tourists can enjoy activities like solar operated toy cars for children and solar paddle boats in the lake.
Purkhauti Muktangan
Inaugurated in 2016 by former President of India, APJ Abdul Kalam, this theme park gives a wonderful glimpse of Chhattisgarh’s civilization. It’s has life-like figurines of the region’s native tribals and provides an understanding of their rich culture. Definitely worth checking out!
Nandan Van
Nandan Van is a 25 acres dense forest with a zoo, Pagoda, boating and other adventurous activities. It has a pleasing landscape and nice to spend some time amidst nature.
Marine drive
Raipur has its own version of Marine Drive which is by the Telibandha Lake. This is one of the nicest places in Raipur to spend your evening people watching, relaxing by the lake and eating chaat. Do click a picture with the famous ‘Mor Raipur’ art installation that is inspired by the iconic ‘I amsterdam’ installation.
Marine Drive (Source)
Where to eat in Raipur?
I would definitely recommend checking out Gadh Kalewa near Mahant Ghasi Das Memorial museum. It’s an open-air food court with traditional style seating. Their USP is that they only serve local Chhattisgarhi food and at very reasonable prices. Some of the must try items are Fara, Bada, Cheela, Muthia, Aamat, Bafauri and Dubki Kadi. For a fine-dining experience, head to Kaplavrixa Vegetarian by iStay Raipur (must try the hara bhara kebab and traditional thali).
Where to stay in Raipur?
It is best to stay near the city center so travelling around is not a hassle. I stayed at iStay Hotels – Raipur, which is smack in the city – bus stand is 10 minutes and the railway station is less than 5 minutes away. It was a big relief when I arrived at the Raipur train station at midnight from Jagdalpur and reached the hotel in 4 minutes flat. The staff also called to check if I’d like dinner and prepared a meal for me in advance, since the restaurant would close by the time I arrived. They have a vegetarian restaurant that cooks up great multi-cuisine recipes. If you’re planning to travel anytime soon, Book here.
Liked this post ? Also see…
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- Complete Indore food guide: Visit to Sarafa Bazaar and Chappan Dukan
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