I visited Goa thrice last year. This year, I visited Goa twice in a month. I keep getting asked ‘Why do you always go to Goa?’ The simplest answer would be because I’m a Goan. But honestly there are many reasons. Goa’s laid-back lifestyle, delicious non-vegetarian food, friendly locals and vibrant festivals keep bringing me back. I love their festivals. Almost all of them have a carnival like feel. The people are cheerful, costumes are colourful, there’s lively music, dance, food and unlimited alcohol. They often take to streets and really know how to have fun.
A water festival
Monsoons are an off season in Goa. The state sees a heavy downpour during the months of June, July and August and this keeps tourists at bay. But that in my opinion is because they see Goa merely as a beach holiday destination, oblivious to the fact that this state has a rich cultural heritage left behind by its Portuguese rulers.
June is host to the Goa San Joao, a unique water festival where locals jump into wells and lakes. I have known about the San Joao festival since childhood. Year on year, I saw San Joao celebrations in my neighbourhood in Mumbai albeit on a smaller scale. My folks kept telling me to check out this festival in Goa for its scale and sheer enthusiasm. So I decided that IT WAS TIME TO SEE THE BIG ONE!
San Joao Celebrations in Siolim, North Goa
What is Goa San Joao?
San Joao is the feast of St John the Baptist. He was the cousin of Jesus and he also baptised Jesus in the river Jordan. It’s a traditional feast celebrated not only in Goa but also Portugal. According to legends, Mother Mary shared the news to her sister Elizabeth that she is going to have baby Jesus. At that time, Elizabeth was pregnant with St. John the Baptist who jumped with joy in Elizabeth’s womb on hearing this news. To mark the event, local men jump into wells, lakes and ponds shouting ‘Viva San Joao’– wherein the water-body is reminiscent of Elizabeth’s womb. San Joao is also called the Festival of Fertility as young to-be mothers make offerings to God for a child.
Much like the Goa carnival, floats are colorfully decorated during this festival and people wear bright and fancy costumes while shouting ‘Viva San Joao’. Not to be missed are the lovely coronets locals wear that is carefully stitched together with leaves, flowers and fresh fruits. They are also called the ‘Koupal’ in Konkani.
San Joao in Siolim, North Goa
San Joao is more popular in North Goa as compared to South Goa. Particularly the village of Siolim and Anjuna celebrate San Joao with great enthusiasm. I’ll recommend to check out this cultural festival in Siolim. It takes off as a procession that heads towards the lake bang opposite St. Anthony’s Church. Stage performances are organized, mimicry artists entertain thousands of visitors and floats are decorated and set sail in the lake while people shout ‘Viva San Joao’.
Celebrations at Siolim opposite St. Anthony’s Church
Fernandes Wado after-party
Head towards Fernandes Wado once the day celebrations near Siolim Church wrap up – you are likely to bump into the same faces here. This is the after party for the celebrations of San Joao that go late into the night with groovy music and beer and snack counters. There are live music performances to English, Hindi and Konkani songs and one cannot help but shake a leg. Police patrolling is in place to keep bottleneck traffic and petty crime at bay which gives an impression that the San Joao celebrations at Fernandes Wado are quite popular.
After party celebrations at Fernandes Wado
All in all, it was a wonderful evening and well worth the special trip I made all the way from Mumbai to check out this festival. I left with a promise that I shall return again next year to visit the San Joao festival in Goa!
When is San Joao celebrated?
The Sao Joao festival is celebrated exactly 6 months before the birth of Jesus on the 24 June each year. The grandest celebration happens in Siolim, North Goa. Around 3pm a procession kick-off towards the lake near St. Anthony’s church, Siolim followed by a local gathering and stage performances. Be sure to head to Fernandes Wado merely 5 minutes away from the church for the after-party.
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Getting in
Daily direct flights are easily available from all major metros to Goa. Entering through the new MOPA airport in North Goa is a better option if you’re planning to hang around the Northern part of Goa. It is best to compare flights on Skyscanner before booking.
Where to stay in Goa?
If you plan to stay in North Goa, Siolim House is a great option. It is located in Siolim village (North Goa) where the Sao Joao celebrations are the most prominent, and convenient to visit most of north side beaches like Morjim, Vagator and Baga.
Other options to stay in Goa based on categories:
Budget: Casa Anjuna in North Goa has a cool decor and spacious rooms with a pool
Mid Range: Beleza by the beach in Colva is great if you’re planning to stay in South Goa. It has elegant rooms and private access to the beach
Travel tips
- Goa is a tropical state so make you sure dress for the weather – light fabrics and floral prints to get into the mood, and beach wear of course.
- Bike rentals are easily available – ride safe and wear a helmet.
- If you’re into books, I would highly recommend reading Reflected in water – Writings on Goa by Jerry Pinto. It’s a great way to get a perspective on Goan culture.
Getting out
A full day trip to Dudhsagar waterfalls is worth it and should be on your list. Ganpatipule in Maharashtra has pristine beaches that are still uncrowded – A 5 hour drive from Goa towards Mumbai. A lot of tourists take an overnight bus from Goa to Hampi to explore the UNESCO heritage site in Karnataka. Hampi has a great backpacker vibe. Gokarna is quickly becoming a popular beach holiday destination. A lot of tourists coming into Goa for long-stays also make some time to visit Gokarna – roughly a 4 hour drive.
Vlog Goa Sao Joao | Siolim San Joao vlog
Watch my vlog on Sao Joao in Goa. And don’t forget to subscribe to my YouTube channel
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Liked this Post? Also check out….
- 9 Reasons why You Must Visit Goa Carnival
- Marwari Tradition of Lumba Rakhi for Women
- I Found Another Miraculous Cross in Goa
- Vallarpadam Church, Kochi is Home to an Interesting Folklore
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The date of this festival is same in every year?
Hi Sangeetha… thanks for writing in. Yes, the date is the same year on year, i.e. 24 June.
AWESOME, Ed. I especially liked the part of the guys jumping into the lake, pond etc reliving Elizabeth’s womb of St. John jumping for joy! That’s a wowza fact in my books (:
Thanks Chelsea. You should check this festival out. And especially the gathering at Fernandes wado later in the day. Typical Goan gathering, you’ll love it!