Recently, I set out to explore Jaisalmer in Rajasthan, and the experience was just how it’s described in travel books and guides. The city looks a stunning gold with sandstone structures, the culture and heritage is rich and the food in Jaisalmer is mouth-wateringly delicious. I was accompanied by some hardcore foodies so needless to say that exploring local food in Jaisalmer was high on our list. And that we did!
Rajasthani food is typically spicy. Food in Jaisalmer is influenced by local ingredients at disposal, which means mostly vegetarian fare. But they are not far behind in churning out some amazing Rajasthani non-vegetarian food. Since Jaisalmer is a tourist city, cuisines such as Bengali, Italian and Tibetan are widely available and popular. Here’s some must-dry local cuisine in the city.
Local food in Jaisalmer
Dal Bhati Choorma
These are hard wheat-bread balls seasoned with salt and cooked in a tandoor or firewood, and sprinkled with clarified ghee. It is accompanied by a delicious Dal of soaked lentils. Churma is a traditional sweet dish made from a mixture of Wheat flour, Besan (gram flour), Sooji, Sugar, Ghee and Mixed Nuts. A must try if you’re visiting Rajasthan and especially Jaisalmer.
Ker Sangri
A vegetable dish prepared from Ker and Sangari – desert beans and capers, locally found in the desert region of Jaisalmer. Ker is very sour and may need to be stored in salt water for 15 days to lose its sourness before consumption. Ker Sangri is slow cooked using locally available spices and chilly. It tastes great when combined with bajra roti.
Gatte ki Sabji
Besan or Gram flour sausage pieces are cooked in a yogurt based medium spicy gravy and served with rice or roti. It’s rich in taste and rustic in flavour!
Lal Maans and Safed Maans
Laal Maans is a spicy mutton gravy, cooked in yogurt and (generously added) red chilly paste. Pair the fiery hot gravy with rice or roti. The gentleman taking your order may optionally ask if you would like the gravy medium spicy (Trust me! it’s very hot).
Safed Maans is milder on the spice quotient. Succulent mutton pieces are cooked in a gravy of yogurt and almond and cashew paste and served with rice or roti. Let’s just say, Safed Maans soothes your palate from consuming the fiery Laal Maans. Both dishes are an absolute must try!
Bengali Thali
Jaisalmer receives a lot of Bengali tourists. In fact, one of the highest numbers of tourist in Jaisalmer are Bengalis. A decent amount of ghetto-like Bengali restaurants and lodges have stemmed to cater to this huge tourist population. Expect to have some lip smacking Bengali food like Aloo Poshto and Sweet Tomato Chutney. The Thali is simple home-style food; but the taste is so good, you won’t believe you’re sitting in Jaisalmer and eating a Bengali thali.
Bengali Thali at Hotel Akashdeep
Bhang (Cannabis drink)
A handful of Bhang shops in Jaisalmer are authorized by the government. The owners proudly endorse their license to sell so you will spot them with ease. Try their bhang lassi or bring home bhang cookies. There is a bhang shop near the east gate and west gate of Jaisalmer Fort. You definitely want to tick this off your list!
Makhania Lassi
Kanchan Shree Ice Cream, popular for their Makhania Lassi, has been recommended by Lonely Planet. Best eaten with a spoon, Makhania Lassi is rich and thick with a creamy texture. We tried it and found its taste similar to shrikhand. The shop’s popularity comes, more so, from its strategic location inside Jaisalmer Fort. The recommendation from Lonely Planet is a bonus.
Pyaaz Kachori
This is a deep fried savory pastry stuffed with spicy onion filling, topped with some sev and accompanied by mint and tamarind chutney. Pyaaz Kachori is popular throughout Rajasthan, but you’ll notice an unusually large number of locals and tourists enjoy this snack from the food carts in Jaisalmer.
Dhanraj Ranmal Bhatia Sweets
At our desert camp in Jaisalmer, we asked at the reception to suggest a place to buy local sweets and they recommended the Ghotua Ladoos from Dhanraj Bhatia Sweets. These guys have been around for more than ten generations. Located in the by-lanes near Jaisalmer Fort, you’ll have to maneuver your way skillfully tackling motorists to find this little gem. But it will all be worth the effort in the end.
Bring home their desi ghee Ghotua Ladoos and Panchdhari Ladoos that are absolutely delicious. The owner proudly recommends to avoid refrigeration of these sweets, as they can remain fresh under normal temperature for as long as one month. While you’re at their shop also savour their Mirchi Bhajiya (Chilly Pakoras).
Alcohol to keep the spirits high
As a desert city, Jaisalmer faces extreme temperatures. Days are sunny hot and nights are rather cold. Make weather your excuse to head to the local beer and wine shops. Humour yourself with amusing spellings of spirits at these shops. We noticed that more than two wine shops had spelled Chilled Beer as ‘Child Beer’. And one shop spelled it as ‘Chiled beer’.
Places to see in Jaisalmer
- Jaisalmer Fort (Sonar Killa), obviously!
- Gadisar Lake
- Patwon ki Haveli
- Sam Sand Dunes
- Kuldhara Haunted Village
- Nathmal ki Haveli
- Jaisalmer Government Museum
Top Travel Tips for Jaisalmer
- Give yourself at least four days in Jaisalmer to explore this desert city
- Include a one night stay at a desert camp to complete your Jaisalmer experience
- Take a pre-hired taxi for a day trip from Jaisalmer city to the sand dunes or vice versa (approximately 3k)
How to reach Jaisalmer?
Jaisalmer has an operational airport. There are direct flights to Jaisalmer from metros like Mumbai, Delhi and Ahmedabad (Compare flights). Alternatively, you can fly to Jodhpur (280km) and take a pre-hired taxi to Jaisalmer – that way you’ll cover another city. (Check cheap flights to Jodhpur). We flew down Mumbai-Ahmadabad because we got a cheap ticket, and then took an overnight bus to Jaisalmer.
Where to stay in Jaisalmer?
We stayed at the Prince Desert Camp in the Sam Dunes which was an absolutely lovely experience. If you’re looking for something more economical like a hostel, then check out Zostel Jaisalmer or Moustache Hostel Jaisalmer. If you have the budget to indulge, then there is no better place than Suryagarh Jaisalmer.
Jaisalmer vlog
Watch this man’s rendition of Padharo maro desh
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Hello, Such an amazing post….
thanks Vaibhav
Loved the way you described the food highlights! Any local pickle shops?
Please add the places where to find these items best in jaisalmer
Very good info..Mirchi baraa is very delicious..
Thanks Sampa. and I agree, mirchi baraa is absolutely delicious
What an information. Too good. I love local traditional food and if it is home-made then excellent.
I visited Jaisalmer in the year 2012 but unable to explore it as I wish to. This time whenever I will visit, I will read your blog again.