On a two-week backpacking trip across Nepal, I discovered there is more to the home of Everest than just trekking and nerve-wracking adventures through its dirt roads. Food is an important part of Nepali culture. Its ingredients are influenced by geography and local communities, with some inspiration from Tibetan and Indian cuisine. Dal Bhaat is a national staple, but there are takers for meat like Chicken, Lamb, Buff, and Yak – and the alcohol scene is quite strong. I decided to explore all the traditional and Nepal famous food.
In the Nepali Chulho
My first Nepali meal was dinner at Nepali Chulho, a traditional restaurant tucked in a quiet lane in Lazimpat in Kathmandu. They serve authentic Nepali and Newari fare, where diners enjoy cultural performances like the Kumari and Sherpa Dances. I sampled the Thakali platter – transitional between Himalayan and low-lying cuisine – that served peanut chaat, fried potatoes, a zesty chicken starter, and Nepali Momos with a fiery chutney. For mains, there was Kaali Dal (Lentils) with rice, a spicy wild boar preparation, and some chicken in local spices, nicely washed down with a shot of rice wine.
With love from Tibet
Over the next few days, I moved toward the far northern region in the Nepalese Himalayas bordering Tibet. In Lo Manthang in the Upper Mustang province, at 3840m above sea level, it snows for six months in the year. The remoteness of the region and inhospitable climate make it difficult to move goods and groceries, so the cuisine is made of ingredients that can be locally grown like barley, buckwheat, potatoes, sea buckthorn, yak milk, and yak meat. Yet it is unsurprising to find crowd-pleasers like pizzas, pasta, and espressos – many consumer goods come from the Tibet Autonomous Region of China, with the Kora La border just 20 km away.
Lo Manthang’s cultural links to Tibet have left a strong impact on its food. In the town square of this walled city bustling with local eateries, I tried some excellent Shabalay (deep-fried roti with beef mince) served with hot chutney, some deep-fried sausage on sticks, and butter tea.
High-altitude meal
In Samar, a village 50 km south of Lo Manthang, I stayed at a Nepali homestay where dinner was Dal Bhaat with Aloo Tarkari and Saag (seasonal greens) homegrown in their backyard. But it was the Yak Sukuti (smoked dried yak meat with spices) that stole the show. The stark landscape here makes it essential to preserve meats for consumption over longer durations. Yak Sukuti is an appetizer or bar snack best enjoyed with Khukri Rum or a shot of Rakshi (alcohol distilled from Kodo millet).
Further South, in Kagbeni, I stopped at a restaurant called Yac Donalds that served – hold your breath – Yak burger happy meals. A local did a spinoff on the popular fast-food chain, making this restaurant a popular pitstop with tourists heading to Upper Mustang. They serve yak cheeseburgers with fries and sea buckthorn juice extracted from berries that wildly grow in the region. The wheat for the buns is also locally ground in 15th-century water mills preserving its century-old traditions.
Marpha, 20 kilometres south of Upper Mustang, is the apple garden of Nepal and a pitstop for trekkers heading to the base camp for the Dhaulagiri (the seventh-highest mountain in the world). I enjoyed walking through the narrow-cobbled streets of this charming village, tasting apple brandy and cider along with roast chicken and veggies.
Nepal street food
On an evening walk by the Kali Gandaki River in Tatopani, I stopped for a snack of Nepali Chatpate, an addictive spicy Bhel with WaiWai noodles, puffed rice, lime, and spices. Locals enjoy this fiery snack as an evening tea-time delight or with a cold brew like Gorkha Strong or Barasinghe.
On the seventh day, I was back in Kathmandu – the gastronomic hub of Nepal – and wandered through streets that celebrate its iconic snacks like the Sel-roti, a Nepali-style deep-fried rice donut. These are traditionally eaten during the Hindu festivals of Tihar and Dashain but are now increasingly popular as a street snack.
In the UNESCO town of Bhaktapur, my guide recommended Juju Dhau or King of Curds. This delicious curd is known for its rich and creamy texture, prepared from buffalo milk in traditional clay pots. Legends say that in a yoghurt competition organized by the monarchs of the Malla era, Bhaktapur emerged as the winner over Kathmandu and Lalitpur, and hence was declared Juju Dhau or the King of curds.
I spent the penultimate days of my trip in Bouddhanath – home to the largest stupa in Nepal and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Bouddha is the holiest Tibetan Buddhist temple outside Tibet, making it the centre of Tibetan culture in Kathmandu. The food here heavily leans toward Tibetan culture, and I tried some excellent buff Momos, Thukpa (Noodle soup with meat, egg, and vegetables), and Laphing (cold and spicy flat noodles).
The grand finale of my food adventure was a wholesome Gorkhali lamb curry with rice at the Boudha Boutique Hotel. The meal summed up Nepal’s bountiful culinary delights, some improvised by climate and geographies, others through intermingling cultures, but all reflecting its labour of love.
Getting into Nepal
To enter Nepal via flights, travelers arrive at Kathmandu’s Tribhuvan International Airport, the country’s main hub. Kathmandu offers various international flight connections, including those operated by Nepal Airlines, the national carrier, and serves as a gateway to other destinations like Pokhara and Upper Mustang (Lo Manthang). Check cheap international flights deals to Kathmandu.
From Kathmandu, travelers can reach Pokhara via domestic flights or by road, enjoying scenic landscapes, although the traffic can be a pain point. Cheap domestic flight deals to Pokhara.
Where to stay in Kathmandu
You won’t fall short of good hotels in Kathmandu. I stayed at two hotels in Kathmandu at the start and end of my trip.
Manaslu Hotel is situated in the heart of the city. It has an old-world charm with its traditional architecture. I spent two nights here and appreciated its luxury amenities and convenient location to major attractions such as Durbar Square and Thamel, known for its bustling shopping and eating streets. Check out cheap hotel deals for Manaslu Hotel.
I spent my last two days in Boudhanath at the Siddhartha Boutique Hotel, Boudha. The property had comfortable rooms and reasonable prices and was within walking distance of the UNESCO heritage monument of Boudhha stupa. Check out cheap hotel deals for Siddhartha Boutique Hotel, Boudha.
Where to stay in Pokhara
Among the plethora of hotels in Pokhara, I stayed at Hotel Barahi near Phewa Lake. It had big rooms, a pool, and was conveniently located near restaurants and pubs in walkable distance if you want to step out for beer. Check hotel deals for Hotel Barahi, Pokhara.
Getting out of Kathmandu
Don’t miss Pashupatinath, a sacred Hindu temple complex, Bhaktapur’s well-preserved medieval architecture, and Lalitpur’s (Patan) charming Newari heritage. These can be clubbed into a day’s trip from Kathmandu. Check out cab rentals in Kathmandu.
Nepal travel tips
Best time to visit: Typically, spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November) have great weather and trekking conditions in Nepal.
Packing essentials: Pack warm clothing for the nights in Kathmandu, sunscreen, trekking shoes, and appropriate hiking gear. I’ve been using these high-ankle trekking shoes from Unistar for a while that double up as my riding shoes
Transportation: There are no Uber/OLA services in Kathmandu. However, they have their local app – download Taximundu for local transport.
Permits: Travelers require permits for trekking and visiting certain areas like Upper Mustang. Make sure you arrange for these in advance.
Local experiences: If you are short on time to explore Kathmandu’s food scene, join a street food walking tour for a quick taste of the city’s culinary delights. For a deeper cultural experience, immerse yourself in a half-day cooking class in Thamel.
Books on Nepal: I’m big on books and feel that they provide a great cultural glimpse into the place through stories and narratives. Read ‘House of Snow: An Anthology of the Greatest Writings about Nepal’ from acclaimed writers including Edmund Hilary.
‘Kathmandu’ by Thomas Bell provides a firsthand account of the country’s tumultuous journey, blending memoir with sharp observation from his 20+ years as a British journalist living in Nepal.
