A lesson in history in Maheshwar

When I landed at the Devi Ahilya Bai Holkar airport in Indore, I was curious to know who Devi Ahilya Bai was. Why has an airport been named after her? I got my answer in Maheshwar! We took a detour to Maheshwar on our two nights and three days trip to Indore, Ujjain, Mandu and Omkareshwar. Maheshwar is popular with pilgrims as much as it is with tourists. I am hardly a religious person. So Maheshwar…

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A foodie’s guide to Indore

A night before flying down to Indore, I sat with a colleague who hails from the city and made a list of snacks I HAVE TO try. Indore has so much to offer, your appetite is not going to be able to keep pace. So it would help if you kept a list handy. Anything over and above that list is a plus 🙂 It is true that the people of Indore trip on food. I…

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When Bhopal died a million deaths

To quote Ruskin Bond from ‘Strange men strange places’ – History is best experienced by visiting the actual place of the events and allowing one’s imagination to roam backwards and forward in time. Ever since I saw a Natgeo documentary on the Bhopal Gas Tragedy couple of years back, I have wanted to visit Bhopal. The intention has been to see what remains of the city that saw the world’s worst industrial disaster. Revisiting 1984…

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Camping in the Satpura tiger reserve

Sunsets be like… “That’s it! I can’t walk anymore. I’m going to give up?” I thought several times while trekking in the Satpura Tiger Reserve. I was doing the Panchmarhi trail under the Satpura Under Canvas programme, a unique walking safari by Reni Pani Jungle Lodge. Satpura is the only tiger reserve in the country where one can camp inside the forest and undertake walking trails. During the British Raj, Madhya Pradesh was known as…

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Luxury Hotels in Bhopal: Jehan Numa Retreat Review

I had returned from one of the toughest treks I’ve done in my life. My head was high in pride but my body was aching no end. We were sleeping in tents and trekking 12km a day until sunset in the Satpura Tiger Reserve. Our battered bodies needed some rejuvenation. After completing the trek, I moved towards the city of begums – Bhopal, where my abode was the lovely Jehan Numa Retreat. It was just…

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The unfinished Bhojpur temple, Bhopal

I kept my expectations low from this 11th century Hindu temple in Bhojpur on the outskirts of Bhopal. I’ve visited many Hindu temples in the past but none offered anything different from the other in terms of architecture. The otherwise nondescript town of Bhojpur is famous for the Bhojeshwar temple built by Raja Bhoj of the Paramara dynasty in Central India. Remember that famous Hindi phrase “Kaha Raja Bhoj, aur kaha Gangu Telli”? Yes, the same…

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