LateHistory is best experienced by visiting the actual place of the events and allowing one’s imagination to roam backwards and forward in time.
Ever since I saw a Natgeo documentary on the Bhopal Gas Tragedy couple of years back, I have wanted to visit Bhopal. The intention was to see what remains of the city that became infamous for one of the world’s worst industrial disaster in 1984.
Revisiting 1984
1984 must have been a difficult year for India. Although, Rakesh Sharma made it to space in April, the nation witnessed the Operation Blue Star in June. Indira Gandhi ordered military forces to attack the Golden Temple to capture militant Sikh leader Jarnail Singh Bhindranwale. This was followed by Indira Gandhi’s assassination in October 1984 by two of her Sikh bodyguards. In retaliation, 2000 Sikhs were killed in what came to be known as the 1984 Sikh Massacre.
December 1984 awaited a disaster that witnessed damages to humankind which we see till date. On 3rd December, tank 610 of the Union Carbide factory had a leakage that resulted in emitting methyl isocyanate, one of the most poisonous gases in the world. Hundreds of locals died in their sleep. Others woke up to the sight of death and horror. Kids lost their parents. Parents lost their kids. The incident took the lives of nearly 3000 people according to government reports. Although unofficial sources state 20000 deaths over several days. Thousands of other survivors continued to battle diseases like cancer, cerebral palcy and birth defects.
Union Carbide factory in ruins
Visit to Bhopal Gas Tragedy Site
On a half day city exploration of Bhopal, I mentioned to our driver to show us around the Union Carbide factory. He had a surprised look and found it amusing why I’d be interested in visiting a shut down factory on the Bhopal outskirts, surrounded by shanties.
What remains of Bhopal Gas Tragedy Site
The factory, now in ruins, screams of a horrific past. We were aghast by the sight of how close houses were to the factory. Locals used the deserted land to graze their cattle; kids used it as their playground. Union Carbide abandoned the factory but never cleant the place. Hence locals were forced to drink water contaminated by the pollutants in the region. The ill-effects of this are seen in the second and third generation of survivors suffering from several respiratory diseases and disabilities.
Unsurprisingly, anger on the streets of Bhopal was evident with anti-government messages showcasing their displeasure on how justice has been delayed to them.
Anti-government messages along the roads leading to the factory
Bhopal Gas Tragedy monument
There is a memorial of a weeping mother carrying her dead child that stands on the footpath opposite to the factory. Sculpted by artist Ruth Watermann, this was the only public memorial for the tragedy until a couple of years back. Recently, activists have set up the ‘Remember Bhopal Museum’, two kilometres from the factory. It’s a great medium to know more about the industrial disaster through exhibits, lots of pictures and audio narration by survivors.
Visiting Bhopal – Where to stay?
For budget travellers – Bistar Hostels is very comfortable and they have a kick-ass view overlooking the Bada Talao.
For nature lovers – Definitely recommend staying at the Jehan Numa Retreat located on the fringe of Van Vihar Nation Park
For a luxurious stay – Look no beyond than the Jehan Numa Palace hotel which was the erstwhile residence of the Nawabs of Bhopal
Book recommendation for armchair travel
Unfolding the betrayal of the Bhopal gas tragedy | Buy here
More stories from Bhopal
- The story of the unfinished Bhojpur temple
- Camping inside the Satpura Tiger Reserve
- Hotel review: Jehan Numa Retreat, Bhopal
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