Gilbert Hill – To See Or Not To See

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Gilbert Hill is as old as ‘The Age of the Reptiles’ dating 65 million years. It is made up of black basalt rock columns that were a result of molten lava that got squeezed from the Earth’s clefts. Gilbert Hill is often compared to the Devils Tower in Wyoming and the Devils Postpile National Monument in Eastern California. This also translates that these 3 monuments are the only one of a kind in the world.

(Left) Gilbert Hill; (Right) Devils Tower, Wyoming

Basalt rock column formations – (Left) Gilbert Hill and (Right) Devils Tower, Wyoming

In India, Gilbert Hill was granted a National Park status in the year 1952. More recently, efforts from Environmentalists and Geologists resulted in making Gilbert Hill a Grade II Heritage structure. Of course, nothing much has been done about all this. On the contrary, the hill is eroding and the area surrounding it has been nibbled by builders and slum dwellers over the years.

Gilbert Hill

Gilbert Hill

Growing up in Mumbai, I always gazed at Gilbert Hill in awe while traveling on the JVPD road (between Juhu and Andheri). I was told by many that the location is not safe, it is not accessible, it is encroached by buildings and slums, etc. But there was always some part in me that wanted to see this crumbling geological monument.

The Trip:

On a Sunday morning, we (that would be my neighbor and I) decided to visit Gilbert Hill. We were amazed to learn of the fact that the hill is located close to Andheri train station (who would have thought?). As we kept approaching the hill, the roads got narrower and then bumpy and finally we were riding on unpaved roads (kachcha rasta). When we reached the location, Gilbert Hill looked stunning and as if undeterred by the damage that its neighboring buildings and slums were causing to it.

Gilbert Hill and encroaching buildings

Gilbert Hill and encroaching buildings

Buildings have been erected barely 12 meters away from Gilbert Hill. It did not seem as if builders paid any heed to stay orders on construction as many more buildings were half way through their construction work. Large amount of debris from these construction works lay at one side of the hill. And the number of slums surrounding the plot is beyond counting skills.

Debris near Gilbert Hill

Debris near Gilbert Hill

We tried to find the entrance to climb Gilbert Hill and reach Gaondevi Durgamata temple atop, but were informed by a local that the entrance is a separate route altogether. So, we clicked a few pictures and headed on our route to reach the entrance gate to climb Gilbert Hill.

Climbing the steps to Gaondevi temple was a bit underwhelming, as we were expecting more steps to climb. Roads, although not in good shape, but are present leading you almost half way to the hill. This leaves you with very little steps to climb.

Steep Stairway leading to Gaondevi temple on Gilbert Hill

Steep Stairway leading to Gaondevi temple on Gilbert Hill

Once atop, the view is amazing. The expanse of Mumbai suburbs can be seen in a 360 degree view. Buildings, clustered slums, green open grounds, clear blue sky and a sunrise or sunset view (depending on the time of your visit) is what you can expect, positively.

Sunrise at Gilbert Hill

Sunrise at Gilbert Hill

Slums surrounding Gilbert hill - View atop

Slums surrounding Gilbert hill – View atop

Gilbert Hill - View Atop

Gilbert Hill view from top

The temple is beautifully maintained unlike the hill on which the temple stands. Gaondevi temple is closed between 12pm and 4pm, so try to make this either a sunrise trip or a sunset visit.

Gaondevi Temple atop Gilbert Hill

Gaondevi Temple atop Gilbert Hill

Gaondevi temple atop Gilbert Hill

side view of temple captured along with sunrise

Inside Gaondevi temple

Inside Gaondevi temple

We started at 7am, wrapped our trip in less than 2 hours, and were back home by 10am.

Locate it:

There are 2 routes to reach Gilbert Hill:

One route is to reach the bottom of the hill. The other is the entrance gate for Gaondevi temple atop Gilbert Hill. The entrance for Gaondevi temple is much more accessible compared to the route to reach the bottom of Gilbert Hill. Both routes, however, can be reached from Andheri train station. Once you reach NADCO shopping center on Andheri S.V. Road, take the turn just opposite NADCO to go uphill. Keep going straight and take the second right which will lead you to the stairway entrance to climb Gilbert Hill. Another landmark for this route is the Andheri Jamatkhana (A place of gathering and worship for Muslims).

To reach bottom of the hill, come back to the junction from where you took a right and drive further down (8 to 10min).

Gaondevi temple entrance gate

Gaondevi temple entrance gate

Garland Shop near the Gilbert hill and Gaondevi Temple entrance

Garland Shop near Gilbert hill and Gaondevi Temple entrance

Is visiting Gilbert Hill worth it?

Visiting Gilbert Hill needs a strong will. Accessing this place can be tricky as well. But once you make it here, the feeling is that of an accomplishment to reach a place so grungy, unrefined and less accessible. Note: This is not a tourist spot in any sense, be it location or maintenance. Hence, Gilbert Hill may not go down well with some visitors.

Gilbert Hill

Gilbert Hill

Gilbert Hill is also not prepared for tourists from far off places. Mumbaikars and experimental travelers, try to check this place out. Although, there are Government plans to make this a Tourist Spot, it is unlikely that this will happen anytime soon. On the contrary, if you do not visit this place sooner, the hill is eroding and getting smaller in size until one day when there would be barely any remains of this monolith to claim its existence.

Tips for you:
  • Cars are NOT recommended for this visit. Roads are extremely narrow with potholes and there are some climbs as well. A 2 wheeler would be just fine or local transport like autorickshaw is good. The location can also be reached walking from Andheri station in no more than 20mins.
  • Do not hesitate or shy away from asking for directions if the route gets confusing. We asked nearly 5 people on our journey. They were all friendly and politely guided us.
  • When asking for directions bear in mind that there are 2 different routes. One, to reach the bottom of the hill and the other for climbing the hill and accessing Gaondevi Temple. So if you want to reach the bottom of the hill, you ask for Gilbert Hill directions; but if you want to climb the hill and reach the temple, you ask for the route to Gaondevi Temple.
  • If you use online maps for locating Gilbert Hill, better to type Gaondevi Temple. The location is the same, but entrance to Gaondevi Temple is from where you climb Gilbert Hill.

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Edwina D'souza

Read write watch, 2 left hands and feet, recluse, gazer and occasionally suffer from wanderlust syndrome!!

6 Comments:

  1. Wonderfully written blog. Haven’t missed a single point. Timings of the temple, Proper directions, Routes. Enough pictures. Planning to visit tomorrow. Thanks for writing this article.

  2. Sreejith Sreedhar

    Oh….In last september i was roaming around this place searching for a shop where used home appliances are sold. I never knew that this is such a place. The condition of place is quite Pathetic. Garbage dumped here and there and it stinks. But since its a rare monument, need to visit and also need to spread the word across that authority will take the necessary steps to protect this monument.

  3. Glad you have captured this place, if you ask me, i feel many people who have lived in Mumbai for some time know or have heard of this place and they have a clue as to what it looks like (sparing its cramped and filthy surroundings), but what completely blows everybody’s mind is when they know that there are only 2 such structures on this planet and one of it is in Mumbai !! That is when a mild feeling of patriotism and pride peeps through and quickly fades away to deterioration, encroachment and destruction of this structure. How i wish there was no construction made on the hill, but i guess that temple will ensure it does not get leveled to make way for Man Made hills.

    • Agree with you, Prathamesh. Even I was surprised to learn that this is such a rare monument. Hope concerned bodies are able to do something soon to take care of this structure. Else we’re on our way to lose it (in my opinion).

  4. Gilbert Hill is to visit to see. Recently I visited and it was my third visit.

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